Holland America’s ‘Secret Shopper’
by Bill Potuchek (Director, OSSN Connecticut Chapter)

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We knew that weather in Alaska often changed, and it was no easy task to pack for the trip. We decided to fly into Anchorage two days early and, at the end of the cruise, spend two days in Victoria and two more in Vancouver. I planned for the trip in the same manner that I review the details of a trip with my clients. First, I made a checklist of what to pack, followed by a review of all possible optional tours that, once decided upon, we signed up for in advance so we would not be disappointed.

It was early in the morning of our departure day, as the sun rose, that we found out that our initial flight had been canceled. Thank God for trip cancellation/interruption insurance, as I was sure we would be spending the night in some connecting airport. As luck would have, it all flights that day were delayed, and somehow we managed to make all of our connections and arrive in Anchorage after midnight only 20 minutes late. How amazing it was at midnight to be able to look down as we were approaching and clearly see the glacier-capped mountains of the Alaska Range.

The next two days would find us independently touring Anchorage and the nearby Portage Glacier. As luck would have it, the Provincial Park was celebrating its 100th anniversary, and in the park we found salmon snacks with crackers and cheese. It had rained that day and, as we returned to the hotel to meet our tour director and fellow guests, we wondered if this would be a sign of things to come. The long-range forecast was for showers each day.

It was cloudy when we left by the McKinley Explorer on our way to Denali. I knew that only 25 percent of visitors get to see the mountain in its glory. The rail cars are beautiful, and the scenery was amazing as we traveled north. After checking into the McKinley Lodge for the evening, we prepared for our first optional excursion: a covered wagon tour of the backcountry with a family-style dinner. No one told us that all the wine we could drink was included, and I should have realized that this was just the beginning of a fantastic experience.

The following morning, as we rose early to prepare for our eight-hour tour into the park, we looked out the window to find a beautiful clear blue sky. Our modified “school bus” took us further and further into the park. We saw fox, bears, moose, and caribou along the way. At our first rest stop, there was Mt. McKinley in the distance. We learned that this is the view that guests on the history tour get, but we would go almost 50 miles further into the park. Stopping at scheduled stops to see the flowers and wonderful scenery, we awaited our final stop at “Mile 66.” There it was in all its glory – Mt. McKinley first with clouds obstructing the middle, then after a while a clear view. What an awesome sight! On our return, we saw the dog sled presentation followed by a great “Cabin Nite” show again with plenty of food and fun.

The following morning, after going on the 13-mile “Wilderness Rafting Trip,” it was off to Fairbanks and more beautiful scenery. I could not believe that after 11 p.m. it was still light out. The following day, we got to see the Alaska Pipeline and panned for gold at Gold Dredge #8. I presented Elaine with a locket to show off our $13.75 worth of gold. Oh well, it’s the thought that counts.

We were now off to the Yukon on Holland America’s new “Moosemobile,” a 44-passenger deluxe coach. (By the way, they also have a “Whalemobile” and a “Bearmobile.”) It is worth mentioning that, when you travel to the Yukon, you are out in the middle of nowhere. The evening was spent in Tok.

The following day saw us traverse the Taylor Highway, which is a 125-mile-long gravel road. We stopped in Eagle for a picnic lunch and a tour of the town. I got to play the role of judge in a mock trial at the local courthouse. We then boarded the “Yukon Queen” for a relaxing cruise down the Yukon River to Dawson City, a city right out of the Old West where we were treated to a show at Diamond Gertie’s. You would think you were in the Old West, with dirt roads and turn-of-the-century buildings. Trying my luck at Blackjack, I went away with $14.

The following day, Elaine and I took the optional “Hart River Road” hike in Tombstone Park. Turns out that we were the only ones who signed up, so we had our own private guide. It made us feel like old pioneers as we hiked almost five miles, and while we did not encounter any animals (good thing!), we did see lots of tracks and got to smell the scent of a moose.

The following day was off to Whitehorse, where we saw the “Frantic Follies.” In the hotel lobby, we saw a sign that said the sun rose at 5:18 and set at 11:42. Makes for a long day. On our final land day, we took the coach to the White Pass Railroad that took us to Skagway. The views were fantastic. Our luck with fair weather was continuing, and after our arrival in Skagway, we took a tour of the city and did some shopping.

The next, day we said farewell to our tour guide Kyle. A student from Mississippi, he was amazingly helpful and information during the time we were with him. The bus drivers (also young but very professional) were so well informed on the history of where we were and made the trip on land interesting and informative. While I might only take the Yukon portion of the tour once, I would definitely recommend it to any client who doesn’t mind spending long rides on a motor coach, getting up early each morning, and living out of a suitcase. (Not to mention staying in two-star-type hotels.)

As we boarded the “Zuiderdam,” it felt like old home week, because I had led a group on the inaugural sailing of the ship. We were the first to arrive and were promptly escorted to our cabin. What a surprise to find out that our “outside guarantee” had turned into a balcony midship on the port side, which is ideal for sailing south. As we sailed into Glacier Bay at 7:30 a.m. in a thick fog, we thought our luck on weather had run out. The naturalist assured us, however, that the fog would lift by 9:30 a.m. – and, sure enough, it did. He also told us only one in three cruises get to see the glaciers and mountains on a clear day. You could hear and see the glaciers “calving.” It is unbelievable how close the captain could get the ship to the glacier. We spent all day on deck listening to the naturalist and the park rangers. For dinner, we had the ship’s security officer and his wife at our table. It was interesting to share our travel stories (all of this and not to be able to tell my profession at the same time).

Our next port would be Ketchikan. I got up early to see the sunrise after closing down the piano bar at 2 a.m. It was well worth it. In Ketchikan we took the “land and sea” tour, and we got to see an eagle in flight and learned about canning salmon and making totem poles.

Our final day at sea would take us into the “Inside Passage.” We were told that fog often detours the ships to the ocean side, but again the weather gods were with us. We got to see killer whales at a distance and learned of the towns we were passing. We said goodbye to many of our friends whom we met after seeking some last-minute opinions of their cruise tour experience.

Arriving in Vancouver, we took the Pacific Coach Lines to Victoria. While there, we visited the Butchart Gardens, which I would recommend to everyone. It was a Saturday evening, so we got to view the illumination and the spectacular fireworks. While touring the city the next day, we were told that the annual symphony concert and fireworks would be presented on the waterfront and that 50,000 people were expected. We got an early seat by the waterfront and were treated to a great concert and fireworks display.

Traveling back to Vancouver, we stayed for two days to get a tour of the North Shore, Grouse Mountain, and the Capilano Suspension Bridge. Again, beautiful fair skies and great visibility followed us. On our last day, we finally got the long-promised showers from Anchorage as we toured Vancouver and began our trip home.

In summary, I would recommend Alaska to everyone. At least once, everyone should take an “inland” tour to go along with a cruise. There is a lot to see and do. Yes, we were fortunate with almost perfect weather, and “locals” along the way kept telling us how fortunate we were. Our guides, drivers, local representatives, and cruise staff were competent, knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful. I was amazed at how vast the country is and so beautiful. We packed in numerous optional tours, as we didn’t want to miss anything. The trip exceeded our expectations. It seemed that, everywhere I turned, there was beautiful scenery or locals who would love to tell tales of their years in the town.

There are many cruise lines and itineraries for Alaska. I would recommend that you sit down with your potential Alaska clients and ask many questions before recommending a specific tour. I do believe, however, that the cruise lines are correct when they say that passengers taking the cruise only are missing out on the “real” Alaska.

Bill Potuchek, CTA, ACC, serves as director of the OSSN Connecticut Chapter.

(Credits: Bill Potuchek, stock photos)