Destination: Victoria Falls
by Su Holshausen

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VICTORIA FALLS SAFARI LODGE

Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the lodge's excellent staff were my hosts for this part of my trip. I flew into the charming little airport on a local airline, having been served a delicious breakfast in just under an hour! I was met and escorted to the mini-bus by the lodge's shuttle driver and welcomed to the lodge by a colorful ethnic dance and big smiles. The VF Safari Lodge is 15 miles from the airport and two miles outside the small town of Victoria Falls. It is set amongst unspoilt bushveldt and situated high on a plateau overlooking a waterhole and the great Zambezi River in the middle distance.

Each room is placed in such a way as to enjoy a private balcony and spectacular African sunsets. The décor is bright and earthy in primary shades – the blues, very blue, the reds, oranges, and yellows very bright – the designs are geometric and ethnic at the same time. A lot of fun, and this, along with the open and airy architecture of the common rooms, invites a sense of anticipation and excitement. The delight of watching the animal kingdom leisurely make their way to the waterhole while enjoying your own particular drink with nothing but fresh air and the scale of the hillside between you is hard to beat.

But, beat it you will! As I made my way to the entrance of the Victoria Falls National Park, I was intensely aware of the height of the spray being thrown up from the force of millions of tons of water cascading over this most amazing schism in the earth, and the sound of rumbling thunder that gives this natural phenomenon its indigenous name – Mosi-Oa-Tunya, The Smoke that Thunders.

As I entered the park, suitably donned in rain poncho to stay dry through the rain forest, I saw a large guided group of Korean tourists taking the path to the right and, wanting to be out of the crowd, resolved to go left. It was a great move because, unbelievably, I enjoyed the entire visit completely alone! Just me and this wondrous gift of nature to mankind! The force of that much water lunging over a 100-meter precipice to a narrow gorge hewn out of sheer rock, literally takes your breath away. I could feel the impact vibrating in my chest and, even if I had a companion, conversation would have been impossible. As I walked the rustic trail to the great river above the Falls, I had an irresistible urge to warn the water! I felt like shouting, “Do you know where you’re going?!” The sight is, quite simply, breathtaking. I left in a state of humility and with a deep sense of joy at having seen such a sight. A feeling, I might add, that was fairly common amongst the other visitors that I met while there.

ACTIVITIES

The Victoria Falls bills itself as the “unchallenged adventure capital of Africa,” and the variety of thrilling and unusual pursuits seem endless. One can canoe or cruise amongst the hippo, elephant and crocodiles of the upper Zambezi, white-water raft over some of the greatest rapids in the world on a day trip, jet boat in the gorge below the falls, enjoy scenic flights over the falls in a multitude of different craft from fixed wing planes and helicopters to microflights and parasailing, and perhaps the wildest of the wild is the bunji jump of 111 meters from the scenic rail bridge scanning the gorge between Zimbabwe and Zambia! Not to mention all of the land activities, which include everything from riding elephants, game drives, shopping for handmade crafts, and walking with lions to the more mundane horse riding or round of golf, complete with elephants wandering across the greens!

HOTELS & DINING

There are a variety of hotels and resorts in the area, but the two that stood out were the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and the very elegant and colonial Victoria Falls Hotel, a proud member of the internationally recognized organization of The Leading Hotels of the World. This 100-year-old hotel effortlessly combines the charm of yesteryear with the comfort and convenience expected today with arguably the best view of the region. The hotel’s covered verandah runs the length of the establishment and overlooks the bridge and gorge below, with a backdrop of huge columns of spray from the falls themselves. Afternoon tea served on the verandah is definitely worth stopping in for!

The VF Safari Lodge offers two very different dining experiences. The Makuwa-kuwa is a restful, split-level luxurious restaurant with views overlooking the waterhole, which is lit up at night to enjoy nocturnal game sightings. Meanwhile, the Boma is a uniquely African experience, including traditional dancing, singing, interactive drumming, and mouth-watering local dishes. I can highly recommend the grilled impala and marinated warthog steak, but suggest only the bravest go for the Mopani worms!

SAFARI PAR EXCELLENCE & ZAMBIA

After leaving the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, Safari Par Excellence (a local tour operator) took me across the bridge to Zambia, where I had the opportunity to visit a sampling of the Zambian properties. They have a comprehensive range of resorts to suit every budget and every taste. The riverfront properties along the Water - with their family rooms and large, safe camping areas - are perfect for clients wanting to enjoy this area in a more relaxed and economical way, while the magnificence of the David Livingstone Lodge and Spa with its expansive dining areas and vanishing-edge pool poised at the edge of the mighty Zambezi will appeal to more high-end clients.

On the way back, I was able to enjoy the World Heritage Site of the Victoria Falls from the Zambian perspective. Here, the rustic path is very much closer to the river above the falls, and the approach to safety is much more casual than the regular American would be used to. There are plenty of mischievous monkeys and baboons to delight, but please do not feed or try to touch them, as they are still wild and will bite. The Eastern Cataract and sections of the main falls are possible to view and enjoy from this vantage point. The open market and curio sales just outside the entrance to the park are well worth visiting.

MASUIE LODGES

My final stop before catching my flight out from this beautiful and enchanting area was a set of rustic lodges built high up on a bluff overlooking one of the tributaries to the Zambezi - the Masuie River - and a major game trail to the river. Each lodge is self-contained with ensuite bathroom, thatched roof, permanent tented walls, and private balcony with a view out over the bushveldt. They share a shady swimming pool and open-air dining room perched above the trail, where it is not unusual to see herds of impala, elephant, and even buffalo making their way to the river. And, as the saying goes in Africa, where there are buffalo, there will be lion! Indeed, it is not unexpected to wake in the night to the sound of a lion’s roar or his deep-throated grunting as he calls in his mate! Just remember that the sound of lion will travel up to five miles in the bush, so even though he sounds as if he is right outside your door, he is probably not!

The Masuie Lodges are part of the Safari Par Excellence bouquet of properties in this region. With only 10 lodges, and falling into the most reasonable of budgets, it is entirely possibly to hire out the whole resort for spectacular wedding, anniversary, or multi-generational gatherings. The dining room has a large bar and dance floor area and has been known to vibrate to the modern sounds of celebration intermingling with the age-old sounds of the African bush!

FLIGHTS & FACTS

Scheduled flights in and out of the Victoria Falls region operate daily to both Livingstone on the Zambian side and Victoria Falls Airport in Zimbabwe, via South African Airways, British Airways, Air Zimbabwe, and some other local regional airlines. The average stay is two nights, and most clients combine a visit to the falls with a safari in Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, or South Africa (or a combination of these safari options). It is entirely possible to extend he stay to three nights or more, as there is so much to do in this area. Most clients will arrange their African trip through a travel consultant and their tour operator, so that most costs are prepaid. Internet access is limited in Zimbabwe but easily accessible in Zambian properties. It's the same pattern with credit card use.

The national park officials charge an entrance fee to Victoria Falls on presentation of citizenship documentation. Citizens from Europe pay in Euros, the British pay in pounds, locals in their local denomination, and U.S. citizens pay about US$20. It is important to bring plenty of U.S. cash in small denominations for personal purchases, as credit cards and travelers checks are not easy to transact for anything smaller than your accommodation bill. All hotels in that area are on a two-tier system where everything is worked on the US$ rate and only local residents pay in Zimbabwe dollars. It is best to use U.S. cash while here, and you will find the exchange rate highly favorable when buying curios and gifts in the local market, so make sure you leave space in your luggage!

The local industry in this region relies heavily on the tourist market, and consequently you will find that the people are helpful, friendly, and concerned about your safety and overall experience. Most of the people are employed in some sector of the industry and are noticeably proud of the part they play. The hotels and resorts in the area are involved in many community projects that directly benefit from your tourist dollar. These include such projects as the hotel school, anti-poaching units, environmental cleanup campaigns, supporting local villages and schools, and even the rehabilitation and reintroduction of diminishing species to the wild (such as rhino and the African lion). While the political climate of Zimbabwe remains abysmal and of great concern, the whole area around the Victoria Falls has remained isolated and untouched by what is happening in the rest of the country. Instead, one is aware of a prosperity and security that is innate with job creation and satisfaction such as exits in the Victoria Falls. I can highly, and with great confidence, recommend a visit to this World Heritage Site!

Su Holshausen is a destination specialist with Lazy Lizard Travel. She's a proud member of OSSN, and we thank her for sharing this travel story and her trip photos with us! You may reach her at su@lazylizardtravel.com or 919.463.8009.

(Credits: Su Holshausen)