July 2010
Destinations: South Africa
by Bobbie Murphy
South Africa is hosting the World Cup this year, and the evidence was everywhere. I was impressed by the cleanliness of the airport as we were met in Johannesburg by a representative of our tour company. As I had paid full price for my trip, joining an agent friend's group of 22, it was nice to be along as a guest and not as a travel professional. One of the first photos I took was of my good friend Patricia "heading" a giant soccer ball in the rotunda of the airport. We could barely contain our excitement, despite flying 18 hours, and we still had another two-hour flight to get to Cape Town! We were to stay four nights at the luxurious Table Bay Hotel, followed by two nights at the Jackalberry Camp in Thorny Bush Private Reserve near Kruger National Park.
A country of contrasts, most certainly! Thirty percent unemployment plagues South Africa, yet our guide Mark assured us that those who wish to work and who have a great idea will thrive. We arrived at our beautiful hotel at about 10 p.m. and were greeted with smiles and warm yet reserved "British" hospitality. We enjoyed a nightcap of wonderful fruity iced tea, were given our room keys, and said our good nights.
After a delicious and bountiful buffet (pronounced like the singer Jimmy Buffett!) the next morning, I grabbed my camera to capture the beautiful sunrise. I have heard photographers comment about the quality of the light in different parts of the world; well, the light truly was more vivid and crisp in Cape Town. Or was it my pure and complete happiness at finally being in this stunning country?
The three days we had to explore and experience were clearly not going to be enough, so I had to move quickly. Most of the group hopped in cabs to go to the local market in search of the perfect memento. Yes, mostly women, and get out of our way! We had to return to the hotel for a 1 p.m. winery tour (this was the only tour included in our package). The downtown market square was quite interesting architecturally, and between purchases, I clicked away with my camera. As you would guess, there were wooden masks, fabrics, t-shirts, jewelry, and pottery. I found the batiks particularly beautiful, and beading is also quite popular. Since I had borrowed my son's camera, the first thing I bought was a handmade motorcycle sculpture of soft metal and beading just for him. Most importantly, I found the people happy and helpful. One of the photos with this article shows a favorite character from the trip - he had a telephone to his ear and the biggest smile I ever saw! I was happy to share a few Rands (the local currency) with him.
The Stellenbosch wine region lies about 45 minutes from the city. We toured the Bergkelder Wine Centre, but there were eight in the area. While it wasn't the best winery tour I have ever done (I have been to Italy!), it was really nice to sit and get to know my fellow travelers a bit better. And I certainly didn't mind tasting the wine, either! We had five pours, and it certainly made the bus trip home much livelier.
As we traveled, it was hard to ignore the slums beside the roadway. The highways were smooth, yet the sadness I felt knowing what lay beyond those fences seemed to make the journey a little bittersweet. I didn't know that, just one day later, I would be walking amongst the people behind that fence.
A cocktail party and dinner (also included in our tour) ended our perfect day. The chef at Table Bay Hotel is to be commended ... fantastic! Our group requested he join us at the table for a round of applause.
Volunteer Tourism - I encourage it, and now I have experienced it. A desire to make a difference, even if for a few, spurred me to ask the Cincinnati Dental Society to donate toothbrushes to Beautiful Gate (www.beautifulgate.org), a non-denominational Christian orphanage helping children in need. Many had HIV or AIDS, and we made it a short stop on our Walk the Freedom Trail/Robben Island tour day. Those in our group who came along (we had about 400 brushes and some toothpaste, as well as some packs of gum) truly were enriched by seeing the facility and a few of the kids. One lady in our group held an infant who latched on and wouldn't let go! If the spirit moves you, check out the good these people are doing. Most of the employees who work there also came from the districts they are helping, and should you choose to donate, your money will go VERY far.
Our other touring included the ferry to Robben Island (a must-do if you want to learn more about apartheid and the struggles of Nelson Mandela), a stop at a Cheetah Outreach Center (where I actually went into the pen and petted a cheetah!), and a walk through Langa, one of the oldest black districts from the 1960s. Even in this place, we could see that some of the residents were trying to make a new life. Though the living conditions remain appalling, the children seemed happy and healthy. We were asked not to photograph the adults unless our guide, Kona, asked them for us. I even played soccer in the streets with a young man for a bit. We tried some homemade beer that some ladies made for us ... YUCK! It was awful. Like moonshine, I guess. In case you are wondering, the government is encouraging these walks through the townships, as it will bring living conditions to the public eye. It was a very humbling experience.
Back in the harbor area around our hotel, it is quite safe and convenient for dining and shopping. Our hotel was attached to a mall, and there were craft stalls just around the corner as well. We found a charming jazz/dinner club one night (I had the most delicious fresh fish there, bones and all!) and a rugby-watching crowd in a bar on the last night. The hotel is in a perfect spot - I don't think I would suggest any other place for a Cape Town stay. The rooms were very comfortable and the views stunning. Not a bad view in the house!
Our last day in Cape Town was spent touring the nature of the peninsula. Take the gondola up to the top of Table Mountain, and you are truly sitting on top of the world! Oh my, what glorious weather we had for our trip - not a cloud in the sky the entire time. This day was one of my favorites, as with each bend in the road, we saw yet another spectacular vista. My only regret that it was from a bus and not my motorcycle!
Table Mountain National Park has a varied terrain, and there are too many highlights to mention here. DO include this tour for your clients - they will thank you for it. Did you know that there are penguins in this park? What fun it was watching them frolic on Boulders Beach. And seeing wild baboons, ostrich, and the cute little Rock Hyrax (they call it "Dassie") ... well, this nature lover was in heaven. My goodness, I watched a mamma baboon nurse her little one on the steps in the lighthouse parking lot!
An early wake-up and transfer to the airport, and we were flying towards our safari camp. The second flight from Jo-burg into Hoedspruit was smooth and quick on a large jet. Our luggage was brought off the plane by tractor, and the little airport was incredibly cute. Thirty minutes later, we arrived at our camp, and after a very brief briefing and signing of the legal papers, off we went by jeep to see the wildlife. An advantage to viewing wildlife at a private reserve as opposed to Kruger National Park is that we could go off road ... and we did that first night! We saw a leopard on our first drive - a sight that thousands don? see at all. We were going to be a lucky bunch.
A papa lion was lying on the sandy road, just outside the rehabilitation enclosure where his son was being cared for. The young male had been gored, probably by a rhino, and had a punctured lung. Surgery saved him, and papa was keeping watch. In the cool nights of late May, heading into winter, the animals often found the sandy roads warm and inviting. Later, we would see the same lion on a different road. Oh, the stories our guide would tell us! He even gave us a lesson on finding Scorpion in the night sky. Each encounter was more interesting than the last ... my senses were enthralled and alert.
The contrasts were evident along the entire journey: night-day, cold-hot, have-have not, city-nature, black-white, meat-fish, strong-weak. The country is vast. We saw but a sliver of the whole.
Your experience will be totally different than mine ... that is the beauty of the bush. Each time I climbed into the jeep, my heart would beat more quickly. As an elephant neared me one day, I found myself leaning away (as if that could prevent him from swatting me like a fly!). These animals are accustomed to the shape of our jeep as we sit ... if one of us were to become frightened and stand up, they would become alarmed and perhaps charge. While there was often a sense of empowerment being safely within the confines of the jeep, we were warned that these are wild animals, and we must be very cautious while in their presence. Our guide and tracker had rifles in case we were confronted by an angry animal, but I certainly would have been overcome with sadness had we needed to use a gun.
My last game drive was amazing, and I made a vow to return one day. The obvious contrast ... man vs. beast. In the two-night stay, we had four game drives, and each was special and memorable. Yet, while I enjoyed the special bonds I made with my human companions, the bonds I made with the creatures of the South African wild enriched my soul.
Bobbie Murphy is the owner of Bobbie's Travel Ltd. in Cincinnati, Ohio, and the director of the OSSN Kentucky Chapter. You may reach her via her listing (under "KY") in the OSSN chapter directors roster.
(Credits: Bobbie Murphy)
Home | Presidents Message | OSSN Trade Show | Hotel | Cruises | Agent Tips | Travel Packages | Chapter Chats
Copyright © 2012 Outside Sales Support Network. All rights reserved. Use subject to terms and conditions.
OSSN E-Agent Magazine for Home-based Agents is published 10th of every month.